Making jewellery

Setting a diamond into a ring so that it is properly secure, with the claws evenly finished and the diamond and claws nicely symmetrical, requires a great deal of skill.

There are two main factors to consider when setting a precious stone. The first is that the stone must be very secure inside the grooves of the setting. The second factor is that the light needs to pass through correctly so that the stones can sparkle.

Preparing the claws so that they are ready to accept the diamond is the most important phase in setting a stone. All of the prongs must be cut at the proper angle and at the right level to ensure that the stone will sit level in the setting, allowing the maximum amount of light to enter the stone.

Using setting pliers, you can apply just the right amount of pressure at the correct angle, tightening each claw over the diamond, properly securing the stone into the mount.

Once the diamond has been set, it is important to check each claw to ensure that it won't catch or snag on clothing. Finally, once the diamond is set securely, the ring is ready for it final stage of polishing.

A diamond ring will last a lifetime if properly maintained. At some point, the ring may need to be resized. It is important that this is done correctly to ensure that the ring stays strong and the stone stays tight.

Traditionally, when you resize a ring, the band is rejoined with solder. Using solder can be a problem, particularly with platinum rings. This is because the solder is softer, and it can wear to a groove over time, showing a visible resizing mark.

Using a laser we are able to introduce high localised heat to melt the platinum, making a platinum to platinum joint, without the need for any solder, and this keeps the ring as strong as when it was first made.

When we resize a ring, the sizing is invisible. It is returned to the customer exactly the same, only a different size, whether that be smaller or larger.

Video Transcript

How to design a bespoke engagement ring

If you were looking for the perfect piece of diamond jewellery, you may consider commissioning a bespoke design. This can be a rewarding and exciting path which gives you the opportunity to create a completely unique piece with complete control over every aspect of the process.

The important thing when we are producing a bespoke design is to make sure we translate the ideas which are on the paper into the computer. The reason that matters so much is that once it is in the computer you can produce photo-realistic images and show the ring exactly how it will ultimately appear.

Using computer edited design software we can start to create the initial images of a ring. This becomes the starting cage of how the design will eventually look. We can select the different areas of each individual ring to start placing the stones and determine how everything is going to be set.

Your designer will guide you through the choices of gemstones and the making process in as much detail as you would like.

Once the design is approved then we can start hand making the ring. This is where the skill of the craftsman jeweller comes into play in ensuring that the finished piece matches exactly your original design.